![]() When you tried to smooth out that ridge, you'd leave another in the middle. (If you just kept stroking the knife down flat, you would simply keep spreading the compound, and the finally the edge of the knife would leave a ridge in it. It's a little hard to describe, but basically you will be beveling the edges of the wet compound. Hold the knife out at an angle so you're using only about the last two inches of the blade and the outside tip is about an inch beyond edge of the compound. To do this, press the blade of the knife against the wet edge of compound. You can sand out ridges left by picking up the knife, but it's easier to do if they're in the middle of the wall and not in the corners.Ģ. Every time you stop a stroke and pick up the knife, the consistency of the compound means a line of it will pull out with the knife edge. Work from corners out to the middle of the wall. Apply with the compound side of the knife at an angle of about 30 degrees to the wall. The compound should cover the whole knife. ![]() Load joint compound on a 12-inch drywall knife. If there are craters (places where the knife skipped, leaving a shallow depression) or grooves, ignore them the finish coat should take care of such flaws.ġ. Use a light hand with the sander - don't sand right through the lTC compound to the tape or metal. After the compound is dry, check for ridges or lumps if there are any, sand them out with special 100-grit drywall sandpaper. Let the compound dry thoroughly - again, it could take 12 hours or more.ģ. Don't try to scoop up too much at one time less is better.Ģ. ![]() After a while you will be able to judge exactly how much compound to scoop up and how to keep it evenly mounded along the knife. Keep the joint compound smooth and free of lumps. It takes longer in hours, but it may be shorter in terms of actual labor. It's hard for an amateur to do both sides of an inside corner at the same time, unless you become adept at using a corner knife. Use long smooth strokes and try to make the compound surface as flat as possible - not concave or mounded. Hold the knife at an angle of about 30 degrees from the surface on the compound side. On the joints, use the 6-inch knife to fill the bevel and just cover the tape. Don't apply too much you'd just have to sand it off later. On the corner bead, use a 6-inch drywall knife to apply a second, thin coat of compound. The goal of this coat is to cover the tape or corner bead. It will fuzz up the surface and make it harder to cover.ġ. (If you do have to sand some spots, avoid sanding the tape. If you were careful when you scraped off the excess, you won't have to sand at this point. (It will take longer if humidity is high.) Don't rush it. If a bubble seems too big to simply press out, stop, hold the tape with the blade, and lift it from the end back to the bubble, then re-embed it.Ĥ. Bubbles tend to travel ahead of the knife. Force the compound to ooze out from under the edges of the tape and press out any bubbles. It may take a couple of hard passes to get the tape thoroughly embedded. The point is to avoid any bubbles or creases. On a vertical joint work from the top down on a horizontal one, determine whether you're more comfortable starting at one end or starting in the middle and working out in both directions.Įmbed the tape in the compound by pressing it with the blade. (Make sure the knife is clean and use a hard, flat surface underneath.) If it's a long seam, you may want to do it in two or three pieces, overlapping the tape just slightly where it joins. You can cut it with a knife or scissors, but the standard way is to tear it against the edge of the knife.
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